in praise of In-N-Out

I’ve lived in Sacramento for about three months, and thus far the closest thing I’ve found to a local or regional restaurant favorite is In-N-Out.  I posted  my initial impressions of In-N-Out here, but now that I’ve had it a few times at different locales, I’d like to comment more on why this place is the real deal.  I’ll do that by comparing it to a Cincinnati tradition and my place of sporadic employment throughout high school and college, Skyline Chili.

When it comes to taste, both In-N-Out and Skyline excel.  In-N-Out does so because they concentrate so much on freshness.  Everything that comes with a burger, from the meat, to the buns, the onions–everything–leaves you with a feeling that you ate somewhat healthily, which is extremely rare in the fast food industry.

At Skyline, on the other hand, the concept of healthy eating is thrown out the window.  But no matter–you know that going in, and few places can offer the concoctions of the Queen City’s favorite.  Similar to In-N-Out, the taste of Skyline’s signature dishes (three-way and cheese coney) is so unique that it’s almost addicting.  When you complete your meal with a York peppermint pattie, you know it’s a good day.

Regarding the menus, one may think that because Skyline’s menu offers much more than In-N-Out, Skyline wins out here.  I, however, beg to differ.  Fast food restaurants do not have executive chefs, so you don’t want the food prep staff to try to do too much.  When your employees’ average age is less than 20, it’s best to stick to the basics and allow the late-teens to learn their trade well.  In-N-Out does this by offering a limited menu, but Skyline is out of its league in offering a buffalo chicken salad and french fries, among other things.  In short, it’s not that In-N-Out’s menu is all that great, but when you look at Skyline’s, you can become confused and wonder what exactly it’s trying to achieve.

Finally, a quick note on service.  Skyline has some fantastic waiters and waitresses.  Too often, however, good service initially can be later ruined by someone else’s incompetence.  Where Skyline fails in comparison to In-N-Out is that at In-N-Out, every staff member is on the ball and ready to assist.  At Skyline, though, I’ve seen too many instances of failure, whether it is a food prep messing up the order, a server not making sure your meal is alright, or overall lethargy throughout the restaurant.  Moreover, I think the higher-ups at Skyline made the wrong decision in forcing every restaurant to have the same look and feel.  In-N-Out can get away with this because their restaurants’ overall scheme is lively.  The general look at Skyline, however, is bland.  They would have been better off in allowing each individual restaurant do its own thing, within reason.

I think the above demonstrates that I’m more impressed with In-N-Out than I am with Skyline.  In-N-Out does very little but they do it extremely well.  Skyline has a great core product, but in trying to do too much, the visitor’s overall experience is diminished.

For more on this subject, visit This World Traveler (In-N-Out at the top of his list, Skyline fails to make the cut), Foma* (noting visits to both places as well as other fast-food restaurants), and Obviously, You’re Not a Golfer (complimenting Skyline but concluding that In-N-Out is the ”reigning champ” and that there is “none better”).

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7 Comments on “in praise of In-N-Out”

  1. JT Says:

    I beg to differ, on oh so many fronts. I have made the same trek from the mighty midwest to Sacramento 3 months ago (though it was God’s country, not Cincinnati). I’ve “been there, done that” with in-N-Out. Though I can honestly say that I have never been to the hailed “Skyline,” the only way it loses to in-N-out, is if it is absolutely retched (which I have learned, may not be all that far off i.e. “sweet chilli.”

    A few points:

    (1) Taste vis-a-vis freshness. B Misc makes the outrageous claim that In-and Out excels in taste, because it is fresh. Fresh, I cannot argue with. They do make the burgers right there. Nevertheless, if you are in the mood for a tasty burger in-and-out is not the place for you. First off, the “fixins” they put on your burger makes one long for taco bell lettuce and tomatoes. More importantly, however, is the burger itself. It is not particularly big, but rather normal. More importantly it is poorly overcooked. This is likely because they make the burgers there, neverthless the in-and-out burger is “extra-well-done.” Nothing I want less than that nice burnt in taste of a crispy burger with cheap grocery store veggies, and to top it off, they toast the bun, er, rather burn the bun, to give it that overall “cajun” style feel. For a fresh burger, that will fill you up, taste good, go to Wendy’s.

    Moreover, their fries are the worst fries I have ever had. They aren’t even fries, really. After like 3 “real” fries, you are stuck with fry “pieces.” So good luck using ketchup or mustard to dip your pieces in. Plus the fries just taste awful. Remember that babysitter you had when you were like 7 who just couldn’t make things like your mom could, but she made you eat it anyway. That’s the experience you have to look forward to with your “Fry pieces” at In-N-Out.

    (2) Menu. I can’t argue with the concept, in fact, if they made tasty burgers, I would dig the concept. But because their burgers are so horrible, you wish they had something different.

    (3) B Misc is completely missing the ball on service. The In-N-Out wait staff is high school age, which probably isn’t all that out of the ordinary. However, despite the simplicity of In-N-Out, one never goes “in” and comes right back “out.” A line almost assuredly awaits you. Additionally, it’s not as if they have the burgers ready for you. In-N-Out is still on the take-a-number-and-wait-to-be-called train. If your number is say “65″ rest assured they just called “37.” I understand part of the cache is that they make the burgers there, and you can see them make it, but I mean, it’s not lie a surprise what people are going to order … A BURGER. THey don’t have anything else. Have some freshly made burgers there, and let me watch as you cookother ones.

    (4) One additional complaint because they are so big on the make the burgers there thing, you undoubtedly leave In-N-Out with that smell everyone loves — cheap burnt greasy hamburger. MMmmmmm…..


  2. It would seem by your own criteria that In N Out should beat out Skyline every time. You concede that the former wins on quality and service, the latter on some ill-defined midwestern nostalgia for bad food prepared in a subpar manner and served without much panache.

  3. B Says:

    JT: Like I’ve said before, I’m willing to wait an extra two to three minutes for quality. How In-N-Out manages the amount of lunchtime customers in such an orderly fashion is a sight to behold. As far as the smell, I think you’re exaggerating. Even if you’re not, it’s not the worst thing in the world. Plus, you can always cover it up with some cheap cologne.

    Mr. Schiff: In-N-Out is indeed the winner in my book, for now. But I won’t refrain from going back to Skyline when I’m in Cincinnati. Further, your condemnation of midwestwern culinary tastes strikes me as elitist.

  4. Hungry Hippo Says:

    While all of these arguments I’m sure mean something… both establishments are great. Sure, neither is perfect, but when I’m in the ‘Nati, I thoroughly enjoy my chili. Anytime I make it out west, I know the place for burgers is In N Out.

    I attempted to go through the drive thru at the In N Out a few years ago right off of the strip in Vegas and the line was ridiculous. I have also been handed my Skyline Chili without crackers in the past. Nobody is perfect, but the deliciousness of both overrides any faults.

  5. staceypings Says:

    I felt warm and fuzzy reading about Skyline… York Peppermint Patties are an after-Skyline MUST.

  6. Once a Kitten, Always a Kitten Says:

    While I find chili in all its forms to be horrible, I agree that Skyline has some unique qualities that no doubt make it an elite establishment – if one were chili-inclined. Personally, I love the burger stench from In N Out. It gives me that warm “I just went to the Waffle House” feeling without actually stepping foot inside such a place. One thing missing from this assessment is a discussion of the apparel available. I own several In N Out t-shirts and have been satisfied with each purchase.

    On a semi-related note, both Raisin Canes and Chic-Fil-A would dominate these two in a side-by-side comparison.

    Nice shout out to the Peppermint Patties’ website.

  7. B Says:

    One idea I have is a mall for fast food establishments only. Too often you’ll go to outlet malls and what not, where McDonald’s and the like play second fiddle to over-rated retail stores. What we need is a central location for all those places you mentioned and more, so that everyone goes home happy, and we can move a step closer to perfect competition in the industry.


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